March 13, 2018

Iris 1 - Iris Underground by Soivohle

Iris Underground, an oil perfume by Soivohle (Liz Zorn) --

There's a perfume season coming on that concentrates on Irises. Three perfumes based on Iris are on the path to Spring for me and hopefully for you too.

I'll post on them one at a time, and will do the next two upon their release and time to experience. (Juan Perez' Woodland Iris and Neela Vermeire Creations' Niral)

Soivohle by Liz Zorn has a new line of oil based perfumes. That's good news, especially for me. I adore oil-based perfumes, and my skin loves to encounter them. My sample of Iris Underground struck me immediately as the exactly the type of beauty I need more of. I went for the full size right away and my fondness grows every time I wear it.

The notes listed on the site are: Apple Natural Accord, Galbanum, Champaca Leaf, Iris Accord, Natural Ionones, Natural Irones, Violet, Amyris, Sandalwood, Opopanax, Violet Leaves, Tolu Balsam, Vintage Musk Accord.

What happens in this oil form is that it slows and tempers the rich and full character of the other influences. They are details acting on the central Iris theme that end up showing an uncanny realism. This perfume exhales the sense of a rich ripe Iris root/bulb/rhizome. This is Iris as cloaked in its full experience of life. The clinging vestiges of damp earth and green leaves and freshness of the air make a full portrait of an Iris.

I suspect the green nature of Galbanum has a lot to do with it. 

I see 'Vintage Musk Accord' and I think the body and liveliness are sustained with it. 


I love the full sense of the fragrant root and its buttery richness. A light sweetness evolves after you get used to the rest. The many varied notes and accords are exactly calibrated to enhance the Iris story. The nature of Iris is revealed and celebrated. This one is an impressive display of skill on the perfumer's part. It also reveals her appreciation of Iris in its element.

It wears like oils do, long and close to the skin. It's intimate. It reaches up to your own in-breath enough to feel it permeate your time in its company. Without becoming overwhelming or triggering scent blindness from too much of a muchness. Balanced, full, round and grounding.

It's not a big or emotional perfume, it's elemental and specifically the soul of a plant. In all its delicate glory with its fragrant roots in the mire and its head in the sun. That might make you emotional if you are moved by that kind of thing. That is, this is a reminder that the Iris holds its secret fragrant nature within its underground source. 

It's a wonder how humans first gained that understanding, to find out Iris's secret, to then bring it to each other as a gift of beauty. 


Liz Zorn is one of those indieperfumers who does everything herself, from start to finish. This is similar to how a painter works, and she is indeed also a serious abstract painter. I've noticed many of my favorite indieperfumers are also deeply engaged painters. (For example, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, John Biebel, Bruno Fazzolari, etc., to name some just off the top of my head).

For this perfume, samples, and more information and other perfumes please visit the Soivohle site

Please find more of posts on Liz Zorn's perfumes through the search bar to the right.

"Soivohle: What does that mean. Soivohle is an acronym it stands for..
Sending Out Inspired Vibrations of Healthy Loving Energy
How do you pronounce Soivohle: see-vo  ~  see-voh"

Images above from the Soivohle site and the Liz Zorn Fine Art site for the paintings. 

Copyright 2018, Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.

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