September 2, 2017

Late and Last of Summer Perfumes 2017

Theodoor van Hoytema calendar 1905
the days of the week and numbers line up this year

The year is moving on, the season of greatest heat passed here. We move into the full-time magic hour kind of days. Slanting rays of light, rustling leaves, sudden rainstorms (praying it stays at just that). Feeling time pass as it works its ways.

Following my personal tastes and intuition lead me in several different directions, perfume-wise, lately. I've feasted on several samples accumulated in the past few months. Now certain ones come to the fore to vie for my fond attention. The beauties of this world remain to be found and appreciated, no matter what else.

These following are precipitating into a strong list for possible full-size possession consideration.

Tubereuse Couture 17 by Perfumerie Generale

Immediately bowled over by Perfumerie Generale's Tubereuse Couture. It satisfies a white flower fanatic's cravings. A full rush of creamy rich tuberose is mixed into a green so green it almost veers into cool mint. The slow dry down turns itself into an air of sophisticated elegant refinement. That more ethereal late form of the perfume's evolution displays as ethereal freshness. This is an air of great luxury and does indeed affiliate with the fashioned world of Couture. The skillful workmanship is divine. A standout, that requires confidence, and ultra feminine. Others in the room with you will know it is there, in its glory.

Notes listed as: kalamanzi oil, green jasmine shoots, ylang-ylang, sugar cane, Indian tuberose, Sumatra benzoin, papyrus.
Eau de Parfum, $125 50ml.



Apolo e Dafne. Piero Pollaiolo
Dryad by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Dryad by Papillon Artisan Perfumes turns itself into a tree, nymph like. You may then identify with that fragrant life. The effect envelops the skin. It brings you within the bark and sap infused fibers and the waving dark green leaves taking in sun. Dry and full bodied, the essence of a life force that is quiet and powerful, smooth and wise with time. Seasoned. A warm cloak of a perfume, like sun on skin. To be worn by anyone, anytime, anywhere. This could be a signature scent, for repeat wear. A sophisticated basic for the fragrant wardrobe, it holds a big personality at the same time. Chic and personal, indie/niche, yet easy to wear and a true enhancement. For me it grew more distinctive with wear, rather than fading out of my own perception as perfumes can often do. Not shy but not overtly intrusive, either.

Notes listed as: cedrat, bigaradier orange, bergamot, narcissus, oakmoss, jonquil, clary sage, orange blossom, lavender, orris, vetiver, thyme, galbanum, costus, tarragon, apricot, benzoin, peru balsam, styrax.
Eau de Parfum, $160 50ml.

Tobacco Rose by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Another by Papillon is Tobacco Rose, embodying the end of summer moment for me, this year. I think of it as a heartbreaker rose. The warmth of the strong rose character is so like the moment before hot tears flow. The tobacco is its earthy warmth, in dry blond harvested leaves. A subtle narcotic tone. A release of tension as this perfumes is absorbed. Evolves into a soft air that lingers like a long sunset in a walled garden. A medieval embroidery, a ceremonial beauty in fragrance form. In time, it burns down to the heart of the rose, an infusion that colors personal space like a musk. Livable, a meditation of a perfume, as a reminder of the solid core of beauty in the outside world.

Notes listed as: Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, oakmoss, ambergris, beeswax and Peru balsam
Eau de Parfum, $160 50 ml. 

Sortilège by Le Galion

A strong, emotionally affecting recreation of a vintage perfume. Direct, full of body, the warmth of a candle flame. Luminous, complex, a presence. For me, verging on serious, and sonorous, and a bit of a mind altering experience. That's because it brings me back to a facet of the aesthetic character of my earliest days. Reminds me of grown women wearing tailored clothing and even hats and long gloves on occasion. The aldehyde forefront is wearing a warm and warming fur coat. An ultra sensitive interpretation of a classical form of perfume. An idealized slice of the past, but right for today. Cleansed of cruel or brutal strength (no animal harmed, no overwhelming scent trail). Silky and voluminous, inspiring in its evocative harking to satin glamor. While wearable today, no matter what you've got on. This vintage style is not intimidating or over luxurious, but inviting and intimate; friendly.


Notes listed as:  lily of the valley, lilac, ylang-ylang, aldehydes, jasmine, mimosa, narcissus, rose, iris, sandalwood, vetiver, labdanum, musk, amber.
Eau de Parfum, $180 100ml.

Disclosures: Tubereuse Couture and Dryad samples purchased by me, Tobacco Rose and Sortilège samples provided by Twisted Lily in Brooklyn, NY.
Images above as caption credited, photo of Tobacco Rose from the LuckyScent site, photo of Sortilège from the Le Galion website.

Copyright 2017, Lucy Raubertas,  All Rights Reserved.

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