August 1, 2017

Zoologist Dragonfly, Civet, Nightingale


"For the animal shall not be measured by man. In a world older and more complete than ours, they move finished and complete, gifted with the extension of the senses we have lost or never attained, living by voices we shall never hear. They are not brethren, they are not underlings: they are other nations, caught with ourselves in the net of life and time, fellow prisoners of the splendor and travail of the earth.”
― Henry BestonThe Outermost House: A Year of Life On The Great Beach of Cape Cod

Victor Wong's Zoologist series produces perfumes based on the personas of specific wildlife personalities. He is building a library of fragrance tributes to our fellow beings. Each one includes beauty, lightness, and humor as well as an emphasis on a unique niche of the natural world.

Each of the indie-perfumers involved shows a personal affinity for the creatures they portray. Using the means of fragrance, they match their human admiration with expressive notes. These fragrance interpretations connect with nature in a way that invites us in too. All our sensitive noses bring us closer together.

René Lalique - Bodice Ornament. Dragonfly Woman 1897-98.

Dragonfly Eau de Parfum by perfumer Juan Perez displays transparency and strength akin to its namesake. Iridescent reflection and lift reference an existence led between the aquatic and ozonic spheres. Water and air are tinted with summer greens, florals and dissolving and evaporating elements.

Papyrus
A calm soft core, limpid and milky, links top and base. The notes are listed as follows: Top -- aldehydes, heliotrope, lemon, peony, rainwater. Soft water calls to the perfume's center softness. Heart Notes -- cherry blossom, clover, iris, lotus, rice. The lotus and rice tone the limpid, romantic core. Base Notes -- amber, moss, musk, papyrus, sandalwood. These join all the rest together, and papyrus and sandalwood hold hands with lotus and rice at the heart.
The aldehydes impart the multi-directional energy of a darting, flashing dragonfly.

Softness held within this strong aromatic energy is our direct opposite. Our own bone structure is held within a soft skin. The dragonfly's body works the other way around.
Dragonfly's cool green aldehydes, detailed with iridescent blue green highlights, support a warm center. The dry down exposes more aromatic details; multi-faceted floral notes.
This perfume contains you within its aromatic, humid aura.
Easy to wear, it's a soothing release into air and water. Takes off on the lift of subtle iridescent facets, and flies on an air current created by the forces of warm and cool.
Civet and Nightingale, in Extrait de Parfum, answer to other scent and style affinities. 
The Zoologist array of wild spirit inspirations provides for a wide range of moods. Covers seasons and weather, different aspects of personalities, and differing skin responses. 
The line is growing, there are now nine (with Elephant, the tenth, will release in October).
Night Civet from the Zoologist website
Civet is an instantaneous scent bomb, a big charismatic personality, sensual and intoxicating. Sometimes you want big, sometimes you want subtle. This is for when you want to be borne away on rolling aromatic waves of scent intoxication. A powerful perfume, with a warm heart. The note list is long, and lengthy wear displays several, depending on where your mind rests on the perfume at any given time. I have dwelt on the coffee, carnation, tuberose, balsams, musks, and woods. These are pierced through with hyacinth, linden, and heliotrope, among other florals, glittering in the depths.
Shelley Waddington, one of my favorite indie-perfumers, has pulled off this magic before. She uses materials other than the ones you'd think, for an effect that brings you to the heart of the target. *
The line never uses animal products. Civet itself is one of the old school legendary ingredients in vintage perfumes. Precious and useful, enhancing and gorgeous, but cruel. Outlawed, but unfortunately, there is still some modern trade in the animal sourced substance. Even more heartbreaking now, when we know better.
There is no worry or cruelty mixed in with this perfume. It's a tribute rather than a stolen substance. Made with facets of plant essences, and clever and sensitive modern synthetic portraits of scent elements.
This is no photo-realist portrait, as civet itself smells awfully unpleasant. In tiny amounts, it has the power to enhance the primal beauty of florals and other perfume notes. What this perfume does is create the effect of that magnification. The civilized veneer rests on top of feral energy, the wildness in a jungle of abundant life and beauty. A modern floral chypre, it calls back to a traditional perfume form. Scent seduction modified by current humane sensibility, on several levels. Genderless, it would be dynamic on a masculine persona and powerful as a feminine one. Melts slowly over the skin, a creamy floral infused, long story you never tire of.
Zoologist Nightingale label/illustration

Nightingale is itself a glowing pink liquid. Reminds me of the School of the Flower's Procession of Cherry Blossom Spirits; music of rhythmic lyrical refinement. Repetition and similarities gather like blossoms into a bouquet of variations on a theme. Blossoms crowded along a branch, supporting the night song of a bird looking for a mate. As an Extrait de Parfum, its strength is a silky enveloping scent garment. Serious base notes support the powdered prettiness of Japanese plum blossom, rose, and violets. The mood is hopeful and balanced, open and charming.
It's a perfume gift of flowers packed into moss, and several woods themed notes. The opening releases a quick brightness. This settles over floral tinged ambergris, sandalwood, and deeper notes. These influences set off the pure petals against a shadowed sky.
The indie-perfumer Toomo Inaba has a background as a prolific perfume blogger in Japanese. More than 5000 posts create a reference for Japanese collectors over a wide range of types. He has traveled world wide for many years as a perfume materials sourcer. His background led to this combination of Western and Eastern aesthetics in perfume form. Calm Japanese elegant simplicity crosses with European chypre complexity. Synthesizes into a romantic appreciation of traditional, sacred nature experiences, observing Spring blossoms. Nightingale is a reminder of traditional human love for nature's recurring rituals.

Please visit the lovely Zoologist site for more detailed note information, interviews, pricing, samples, travel and full sizes, and stockists.
You can search for more of my posts on other perfumes by Shelley Waddington and Juan M. Perez in the search bar.
This is a non-commercial post, samples purchased by me.


Images above as credited, the Papyrus image was found on Pinterest. 
If you have a credit for this image, let me know

Copyright 2017, Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved

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