August 26, 2015

Peccato Originale


The perfume itself is always the main thing. Thank heavens.

Lately I've been getting a little tired of so many ever more elaborate and involved perfume back stories. It's become such a relief when the perfume can just speak for itself. An elegant simplicity of direct experience proves itself to deliver more than promised.  

Some perfumes seem designed to be approached first through their back story. Others have a story but the perfumes don't require it in order to be fully appreciated.  I find Peccato Orignale to be a line focused in that way. 

I don't know Italian but learned the back story and translation of the perfume names well after my first being drawn in by the perfumes themselves. The presentation was enough of an open slate to let me bring more of myself into the experience from the start, and discover them on their own terms. 

There are many reasons that tastes and perfume cravings might change over time and seasons. Each phase may feel like the only possible reality while living within it, but in review we may each pass through  different distinct periods when certain perfume styles are more personally relate-able than others.  

Recently coming out of a longstanding heavy narcotic perfume preference phase, I've become attracted to more subtle, softer, gentler, refined perfumes of complexity and depth. 

On a recent visit to Twisted Lily, trying everything there, three perfumes from Peccato Originale (Original Sin) immediately appealed to me. It's like the instant chemistry you find with certain people.  

These are intended to be gender-free, so never overtly masculine or feminine. They have an projection that goes as far as intimate space, enough to surround yourself with a cloak of aromatic beauty of which you can be constantly aware, that holds on with good longevity. They are overtly beautiful, and easy to fall in love with.

Iniezione Di Morfina (Morphine Injection, ahem) opens in a cloud of soft and soothing fine white powder that will, after a good long time, settle down into a soft fine dusty earthiness. 

This perfume is an immediate mood up lifter, as many powdery perfumes are, but without the often paired sweetness, except for the fresh floral kind. No sugar, simply an naturalistic floral nectar that hovers in the background.  Notes are listed as Iris, Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, White Musk, Vanilla. 

After powder, Iris dominates, and the other florals lend the cooler end of their range. Vanilla is not recognizable as such but makes a base of warmth overlaid with the coolness of these other elements. A pearl like luminosity, not bright, but glowing.

Tintura Spiritosa (Spirit Tonic) was my first favorite. Another excellent mood uplift in perfume form. This is that delightful thing, a light incense, that then turns a corner and moves into a soft musk supported by a pale vanilla. The notes are listed as Blackcurrant, Nutmeg, Hedione, Black Pepper, Damask Rose, Tea, Labdanum, Vanilla, Musk, Ambergris. 

Fascinating, as these listed notes are certainly there but in a way that is so light and so blended together that none of them stand out as individuals but all symphonically joined in an unusual, subtle, abstract space that is orderly and balanced while warmly intimate and interior. Makes for an introverted gaze away from the outside world into a pleasant corner of yourself. A mood and atmosphere more than a strong pointed direction, Hedione's radiance married into Musk and Ambergris intimacy.

Cantharide (Spanish Fly) is an Oriental powder with soft leather notes. Skin smooth, and again the united notes create a mood rather than a focus on one or another. Angelica Seeds, Bright Leather, Benzoin, Patchouli, Vanilla and Musk.  

Warmth, a delicate youthful human skin powdered over with whispers of the warmer parts of Vanilla, Musk and the two other heat generating notes of Benzoin and Patchouli. Easily melds into your own skin's scent, as a presence that casts a tint over you. 

I must not be the only one, as I see on the Twisted Lily site each are currently sold out, but more will be available shortly, and a sample pack is available now.

Copyright 2015, Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.

Samples provided by Twisted Lily.  
This review/post is independent.
Images of soft clouds above by Artori-stock.
Image of the perfume from Twisted Lily.

Music to Listen to Perfume by: 
Euro chill-out Downtempo:  



4 comments:

Neyon said...

Tintura Spiritosa sounds stunning! I love nutmeg, tea and blackcurrant! And I'm all-for 'introversion'. Thanks for sharing :)

Brooklyn Fragrance Lover said...

Great article! I love this line as well.

deana sidney said...

I really would love to meet you at Twisted Lily one day, you are the world's best perfume guide. I would buy all of these if I could-- so difficult to decide between spirit tonic and spanish fly -- I must get the samples and see for myself.

Lucy Raubertas said...

thank you Neyon and Carlos!!!

Would love to meet at TL with you Deanna, would be a blast.