May 5, 2015

April Aromatics: Tempted Muse and Erdenstern

Garden of Love, Illustration to Boccaccio
Two new fully natural perfumes from a master of the form, these have intriguing and lyrical sources of inspiration.

The perfumer Tanja Bochnig sees Tempted Muse as dominantly inspired by the feminine and Erdenstern as a masculine force. While further balanced into unisex forms, they both hold powerfully archetypal and mythic aspects of gender.

Tempted Muse (eau de parfum) is inspired by the concept of divine ambrosia, nectar and honey, fresh fully opened flowers warmed by the sun in a fairy tale garden where lovers meet to kiss and inhale each other's breath.

It has the sunny character of citrus grapefruit opening to a bright fruit accord, that hovers over a collection of ultra rich florals, especially Frangipani and Tuberose, a heady pairing. It continues to hold on with a garden full of richly fragrant white florals, mixed with pure wax, tonka and vanilla, and an ethereal sandalwood base.

Close to narcotic while still meditative, this perfume is suffused with calmness and flowers heavy with nectar, that relax the skin as if warmed by the sun.  A mood changer. 

One of those natural perfume experiences that can make you forget everything else around you as you focus on it, as it is so dimensional, engaging and soothing.  It seems to stain the skin like a bright ink made of light, and so holds on with tenacity, thankfully. Luxurious.  

Reminds me of the ideal enclosed gardens in medieval miniatures, as their fragrances would be caught and magnified by an enclosed space illuminated by the sun.

al ajaib al makhluqat 1570
winged horse angel
Erdenstern (eau de parfum)  - warm earthy mildness, the wild sweetness of tobacco, an animal heat like that of a fine horse after a long gallop, resting in loose leather straps, stopping for a drink and grass in a sunny Autumn field.

Erdenstern is the Earth Star,  the conduit between the two worlds of gods and mortals, the exalted and the earthy, like the restful feel of the all-pervasive energy of an afternoon of warm sun on wet leaves, slowly releasing a thousand subtle scents of trees, earth, water, mixed into the air.

Musk, a botanical Ambergis accord, Tonka, Vetiver, Tabak, Cacao, Opoponax, exhale a rich leather feel, imbued with the calming tones of fine fresh tobacco and that energy of sunny warmth.

As time passes the perfume grows more refined, somewhat less darkly earthy, more like a finely milled powder made of sandalwood infused with a light breath of cocoa, joined intimately to the natural skin tone. A pure musk that enhances a human presence.

Both perfumes are pervaded with deeply peaceful calm.

Please see the April Aromatics site and/or Lucky Scent for more detailed ordering information as to prices, size and samples.

Copyright 2015, Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.
Samples provided by the perfumer.

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