February 2, 2015

Baruti Perfumes

Baruti has recently re-launched with six perfumes. I have written about the prior incarnation as Magnetic Scents in April 2014.  

This line is the essence of Amsterdam distilled into perfume form. Spare refined cleanliness is set beside the aromas of fresh hand-rolled cigarettes and rich cream and sepia shadows, and the principals of contemporary design keep an informed eye on the grand traditions of the great art housed in its legendary museums. The general population's attitude of what is sensible and reasonable maintains a careful inner balance in their pursuit of daily pleasures. and a clear and balanced ideal of the Good Life is always kept in mind.

The perfumer Dr. Spyros Drosopoulos of Baruti
What I said last year bears repeating:
"the perfumer Dr. Spyros Drosopoulos is a also specialist in sleep and memory, a doctor who has become a perfumer, with a true contemporary sensibility that appreciates nature and produces everything by hand, with ecological consciousness, as the site says. The study of sleep and memory shows in these perfumes; they are soothing and memorable."
Which is a great basis from which to create perfumes, and this persona carries through into the new incarnation at Baruti.

I wore Melkmeisje out and about in Brooklyn yesterday and was asked what it was; quite a rare occurrence among strangers in NYC, and was complimented on how floral and restful it was. As an Extrait de Parfum, even much later in the afternoon walking home in the cold I could still sense it clearly coming through my winter glove. Delightful.
Vermeer's The Milkmaid

Melkmeisje was inspired by the Vermeer painting The Milkmaid, with notes listed as Pear, Lilac, Linden blossom, Honey, Orris root, Vanilla, Vetiver, Sandalwood, and Musk, to "encapsulate the promise of early summer".  For me the peak of this perfume experience is the combination of linden, lilac and pear, especially with this particular quality of a floral cloud hovering over the gentle musk base. The musk in combination with the other notes holds a creaminess that captures the freshness of Spring flower petals. None of the notes stand out as identifiable or typical, instead they contribute the abstracted essence of what they are into a harmonious whole that is lighthearted, yet reassuringly stable and long lasting.

Voyance gave me the impression of freshness, purity, cleanliness and strong tobacco, which is not listed as a note but all these things in combination are a virtual experience of the masculine half of the city of Amsterdam, in a nutshell. Both earthy and ozonic, there is a washed with mineral water freshness, surrounded by a cozy flannel softness, which I was surprised to find continued to cling after a hot shower.

As the Baruti site says, "Smoke, luminous and limpid, a mystifying paradox" with a featured note list of Tuberose, Guaiac wood, Vetiver, Sandalwood and Musk.  It might be the Vetiver and Musk as tempered by the other notes and uplifted by certain aspects of the Tuberose, that imparts the contradiction and allows the perfume to be both fresh and earthy at the same time. Again, above all, so soothing.  

To my mind that sense of soothing grounded calm is the overall signature of the line.

Nooud  playfully demonstrates the effects of oud without actually using oud itself. Woody in the extreme,  I find it implies Tree and the sap contained within soaked in seawater, then dried in the sun, permeating a freshly sawn-off branch thrown onto a perfume burner.  The power of oud is released, and not heavy but heady. It is strong with some plant-based essence, akin to whatever energy it is that lives within vanilla or cocoa or vetiver, that leaps up from a deep base with the sheer vitality of an aromatic hit of caffeine. Still in the character of the house, there is a sense of peaceful serenity, a way to use the power of oud without wearing it like a thick coat, but rather floating along on the air with the white smoke it creates as it burns.

Berlin in Winter surprised me with its first opening moment of fresh budding florals reaching out with force. It's a very first impression of brightness quickly overtaken by the fragrance of coffee warmed over a flame that is also burning incense. There is closely bonded amber and leather and Nooud itself used as an element. I have not yet visited Berlin myself, but I too appreciate domesticity in the midst of a big city, especially during the harsh winter season we've been having lately. This perfume is meant to evoke "Long cold winter nights, intimate and cozy".   Lavender and orris give an impression of fresh smooth clean and cool sheets waiting under warm fuzzy blankets. There is a cashmere effect, like putting on a soft sweater after a good long fragrant hot bath. The notes are listed as Lavender, Mastic Oil, Rose, Iris, Cassis, Plum, Myrrh, Frankincense, Irish Coffee, Nooud, Amber, Leather.

Indigo is a perfume about that soft dark blue, with the clearness of clean water in it, like a watercolor stain.   The Baruti site describes it as "radiating blue summer skies, continuous music, and effervescent Big-City life." The notes are listed as Mastic Oil, Hyacinth, Rose, Franincense, Atlas Cedar, Sandalwood, Nooud, Amber. I described it this way last year:
"Indigo is full of air cooled by dry astringent herbal infusions, warmed by sun and mystery. There is no specific memory or sensation I can connect to this perfume but it is nonetheless a comfort scent with sophistication laced into its core. 
This is the most gentle of all the line so far, and the most abstract. For me predominantly a musk, toned with the other floral and incense notes to a soft degree that makes them all breathe out through the pores of the skin as it wears over time.  It's a veil that enhances the skin like the balmy fresh summer air that renews you on a day out in the summer. 

Chai is a strong black tea and a little milk, beautifully floral-ized with rose and a little powdered cinnamon, cocoa, amber and pepper. My prior post said this about it in a prior incarnation, which still stands:
"dry Chai tea with Cocoa and Rose, with a lovely staining quality on the skin. I feel as though it will imbue my clothes and hair with magical attractiveness. Milk and vanilla are listed too as the most prominent of the other notes here, to make a Chai accord that has a leafy-root-y quality I find has a beneficial effect on my state of mind. One of the reasons I like perfume so much is the effect it can have of instantly coloring whatever mood within to beautify it. This one imparts a lovely quality of earthy peace and tranquility.
The Baruti site calls it "a delicious Indian Masala Chai" and lists the notes as Cinnamon, Cloves, Ginger, Cardamom, Pepper, Black Tea, Steamed Milk, Cocoa, Roses, Vanilla, Musk Leather.  I find the pepper and the black tea aspect the most important, as it is an airy liquid whose caffiene energy is balanced by the soothing milk musk and vanilla, all in their softest incarnation, balancing the composition into a true perfume rather than a literal depiction of tea. A soft dry down that is exceptionally beautiful, and what you'd wish for yourself after ritually drinking this tea every morning, as it becomes a part of you and emenates through your own skin's pores.

Please visit the Baruti site for full and current information as to prices, samples, and stockists.  

My prior 2014 post on Baruti when it was under another name, is here. 

Samples were provided by the perfumer.
Photos taken from the Baruti site and the Baruti FB site.

Copyright 2015, Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.
This is an independent post, not an ad or a marketing piece.

p.s. There was a recent artistic collaboration artist with Nicklaus Mettler: a perfume "Lark" was created by the perfumer, based on the daily surroundings of the artist:

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