August 19, 2014

A Lab on Fire

This is the S-perfumes' line, now directed by Carlos Kusubayashi, that prefers to keep as much quiet and mystery about itself as possible, with a stylish Asian/Euro-minimalist aesthetic overall, but it has become well known these are a set of perfumes from the most established and esteemed French/Euro-culture perfumers.

All the perfumes are eminently wearable, indeed I would love to have them all, some in multiples so I could feel free to use them with complete abandon.  These are modern perfumes that don't reference anything from the past but do seem to call to basic elemental sensations, like excitement, calm, warmth, coolness, elegance and brightness.

It must be intentional, as I find on trying all the samples that there is a unifying aesthetic; a shared tone among them. There is a basis in medium-toned skin musk, as a personal and human reference point that runs through them all, and though there are some that leap to the upper registers of excitement and energy, there is a basic centered position, with no extremes in lows or highs or silage or initial effect.

They are like candle flames that burn steadily on the skin, rather than crashing through in a big conflagration of an opening; centered in a mood of adult sensuality, self-possession and sophistication as the European constant among them all.

Glorious and celestial may be big, bold words, but imagine them woven into and contained within a silken envelope, as that is the aura these perfumes create around you. Modern, minimalist, pure, refreshing, and connecting you to the atmosphere. They are all both intimate and intimating a large space, reaching out to the environment radiating around you, out to the sky, the elements, and your place as you stand within the energy of Nature and other people.

What We do in Paris is Secret by Dominique Ropion registers as predominantly a seductive and creamy skin tone, with the tiniest pin-pricks of lychee and bergamot wrapped in honey piercing through a gauzy haze of good feeling. The vanilla doesn't come off as vanilla but it imparts that characteristic drowsy warmth in concert with tolu, tonka and sandalwood.  This is the ultimate in smooth, delicious and velvety mood enhancement that keeps you wanting more.  Something you might be tempted to apply a lot of, and if you did it still would not overwhelm as the total effect is ultra-controlled.  The effect of consuming a beautifully made dessert but without the calories, and without the cloying sweetness, but with the satiating satisfaction.

L'Anonyme ou OP-1475-A by Olivier Polge is a whisper of a presence, completely abstract, pure comfort styled to resemble a form of air that you inhale, that will make you feel better in a way that isn't because of anything in particular but because it connects to the calm within you, that lives behind all those layers you are more aware of.  I would say it's the vodka of perfume, a substance that mixes well with everything and seems to be invisible but that causes, with disciplined attention, a beautifully mild intoxication and then repose that reaches down behind whatever distracting mental/emotional state you happen to be in. Which is, as you might expect, a supremely useful substance to have on hand, especially if you are the sensitive or excitable type. This might even be the soul of minimalism in liquid form, and it does what I like perfume to do, in that it acts as a mood-altering substance that leads directly to a calm and pleasant frame of mind. Personally I find the hotter and more humid it is outside, the more immediately noticeable the effect. Then its geranium heart may flash its facets more boldly. But this for me is a perfume that is primarily a velvet cloak of soft and balmy air.

Liquidnight by Carlos Benaim is the scent of anticipation. Fresh and ready, it gives the sensation of skipping down a staircase, ready to burst out into the streets, a sense of freedom and release.  It's bright and somehow familiar though I don't recall anything else quite like it.  The freshness of citrus and herbal elements are crossed with subtle incense notes of aromatic woods, grounded in vanilla/musk in such a way as to use their warmth and steadiness without announcing themselves in full outline.  There is reference to NYC nights out on the town, and it captures that sense of free and excited openness to surprises.

Almost Transparent Blue by Bruno Jovanovic opens with the sparkle of aldehyde crossed with lime, yuzu and thyme, in balanced composition so that none stand apart but all contribute energy and light together. Cedar, Hinoki and musk are the grounding elements and they too work together to center and amplify within bounds of minimalist elegance, to give an overall effect of a silken shine. It marries fast to the skin and transforms its character to give the impression of highly polished physicality.  This perfume extends a sense of enthusiasm, an outgoing joyful welcoming presence. It would be perfect for those times you intend to meet new people or make some new beginning in work or life.

Rose Rebelle Respawn by Sophia Grojsman is a soft creamy charm of rosy floral sensation, turning the corner into a warmth touched by incense and musk.   The impression of freshness and growth, the floral tone associated with its inherent liveliness and vigor pulls together with a background of calm balance and warm skin, perhaps held together within a light suede glove. It's a sensitive play across the subtleties of different forms of aromatic beauty, petals and clean warm skin musk and the breath that pulls within the lightest of incense tones. It's a modern form of romanticism that gives both enough of the perfume traditions of rose and incense and the streamlined minimalist references to comfort and simplicity, organized elegance and the wholesomeness of the body-conscious beautiful.

Sweet Dreams 2003 by Thierry Wasser, is what you might crave if you love the combination of citrus brightness and the freshness of air and water, as equals that pull you along into something new. It's a reminder of places where the air is fresh and there is confidence and pure joy to be had.  The emotive sense of this perfume, a concentrated cologne, is to carry you along a flow of air and light that washes away everything but the present moment.  A refined hedonism, an easy sense of being on a long vacation enjoying a timeless now.  It's persistent and seems to gather strength.  It could be a sense of escape but it could also be contentment in the here and now.  This is an remarkably skillful distillation of the experience of happiness at the ocean side with time to fully enjoy it;  no rush. The citrus is certainly characteristic but it is couched in an abstract atmosphere that does much more in total than the sum of its parts.  I have no idea how any of this was accomplished technically but I am reminded of certain happy moments spent near the ocean, that held a strong sense of possibility and time slowing down.

Oxymusc by Alberto Morillas on me is quite subtle, very much as it is titled, salt air oxygen and white musk, which on my skin is more like a shading strengthening what is already there. The listed notes of muguet, thyme, lavender, musk, birch and vanilla are balanced so precisely that none of them are individuated but combine to create a whole that is simply a magnification of what your skin already is. Your freshly bathed presence is the silage that is thrown into the air around you.  If you recall being a child and how fresh your skin was after playing in the open air all day, you have an idea of what this fragrance does. I can imagine this perfume soothing and calming the mind into deeply restful sleep at the end of a long day, which is no small thing in an adult with some milage on them.  Like the comfort of fresh towels and water and an air bath that makes you feel healthy and calm, it helps to sweep away the day for a new start.

I purchased samples online from Luckyscent, and also was given a sample of the new Oxymusc at Twisted Lily in Brooklyn, which carries the entire line.

Lovely as they are I recommend trying them all so you can experience the unified sense of modern beauty running through them all. It's a remarkable line.

Photos taken from Pinterest; if you have more info as to credits please advise.
This piece is my own opinion and not commissioned or compensated.

Copyright 2014 Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.

No comments: