April 16, 2014

Magnetic Scent

Magnetic Scent has four perfumes that are very different from each other, and each is complex, skillful, and engaging. They are all hand made, true indie perfumes, produced in Amsterdam from a sensibility that is modern yet fully steeped in naturalism.  They all contain wild nature, shaped into elegance.   By modern I don't mean minimalist, but I do mean a straightforward focus on materials without reference to the past in a nostalgic way. These perfumes are not gendered but if pressed I would say they express a youthful masculine take on refinement and relaxed well-being.  I do believe the goal of having a magnetic charismatic quality has been attained, as I am mad about them all.  But then I am partial to perfumes of this genre, which I find cool, earthy yet sophisticated, and grounded in unsweetened naturalism.

Indigo is full of air cooled by dry astringent herbal infusions, warmed by sun and mystery.  There is no specific memory or sensation I can connect to this perfume but it is nonetheless a comfort scent with sophistication laced into its core.  Indigo as a name associates with deep blue, as in casual denim wear, in Japanese fabrics, in the more glamorous oceans of the Adriatic, Mediterranean and the Pacific, and that blue stain from a plant that resembles old fashioned tattoos on sailors. The site lists the notes as Mastic oil (Chios), Angelica root, musk Ambrette seed, Hyacinth, Rose otto, Frankincense (Oman), Cedarwood oil (Atlas), Sandalwood, Amber, and seeing this list shows me where the warmth and dryness come from, as well as the smooth and natural musk tone.  I would say that the perfume is composed so that none of these stand out to be individually recognizable, but more that they harmonize together into an abstract tone that is both clean, natural and warm and grounded.  Something that could be worn on an every-day basis, but also good with a suit or a nice black dress.  

Tinderer is a bit sweet from a touch of violet, that companion to deep green moss, with a beautiful watered silk-y quality. Honestly I could dive into this one, it's like the cleanest fresh water lake bordered by all the good things, rocks, moss, violets, grass, cedars.  It's based on a song of the same name by Under Byen.  Of course music is the perfect inspiration for perfume, especially combined with this sense of the outdoors, sunlight, and a sense of physical well being. It's pretty abstract still, and not referencing any one note in particular as most important, within an overall quality of refreshment and energy.  So if you can't get to the country and swim, this one is like having your own personal Scandinavian lake in a bottle. Notes listed are Cypress, Galbanum, Wet Soil, Cut Grass, Violet, Heliotropin, Ambergris, Musk, Oakmoss, Cedar. That list clues me into the uplift of the Heliotropin smoothed out with Ambergris within a cloud of all the others.

Untitled #1 is a toned jasmine, refined by the addition of checks and balances that cool it down so that the green aspect rises above a ground of roots and woods. The notes combine so that none are literal or obvious.  The whole reflects an atmosphere of a celestial if restrained joy in beauty.  You can breathe deep of this jasmine without fear of being overwhelmed.  It is rich but not distracting, so you can actually think straight while wearing this jasmine.  Those who are as highly sensitive to the powerful effects of this flower as I am will appreciate its aspects more in this transparent form that seems to bind with your own skin's scent. Some of the notes listed in addition to Jasmine absolute are bitter/fresh Absinthe oil,  rooty/fresh/flowery Ginger Lily CO2 extract and Cocoa absolute.

Untitled #2 is a dry Chai tea with Cocoa and Rose, with a lovely staining quality on the skin.  I feel as though it will imbue my clothes and hair with magical attractiveness.  Milk and vanilla are listed too as the most prominent of the other notes here, to make a Chai accord that has a leafy-root-y quality I find has a beneficial effect on my state of mind.  One of the reasons I like perfume so much is the effect it can have of instantly coloring whatever mood within to beautify it. This one imparts a lovely quality of earthy peace and tranquility. 

They are available on the web at Indigo Perfumery and on Magnetic Perfumes online, which also has much about workshops and process.  The perfumer Dr. Spyros Drosopoulos is a also specialist in sleep and memory, a doctor who has become a perfumer, with a true contemporary sensibility that appreciates nature and produces everything by hand, with ecological consciousness, as the site says. The study of sleep and memory shows in these perfumes; they are soothing and memorable.

The perfumes are $150 in the U.S., and there is a list of several retail locations internationally on the Magnetic Perfumes site. There is also an excellent sample program.

Update January 2015:  The new company name is Baruti, please see the site for more info as to prices and stockists. 

Copyright 2014, Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.

1 comment:

Henry said...

I love this scent. Fragrance of Indigo magnetic is integrate the fresh notes of mastic oil with a clean rose and animalic narcotic hyacinth flowers in combination with an ethereal woody-ambery-incense backbone.

Now the season is very hot the smell of this perfume is perfect to use. I agree with your line that "music is the perfect inspiration for perfume, especially combined with this sense of the outdoors, sunlight, and a sense of physical well being. It's pretty abstract still, and not referencing any one note in particular as most important, within an overall quality of refreshment and energy." I am always experimenting with smells and this make me fragrance lover.