March 10, 2014

Bogue - Your Own Perfume

"A wood as a group of trees, plants that fit in a suitcase, and trees sprouting not so far from a cocktail bar, at the back, in the Beijing’s botanical garden.
A country house with a damp and cool wine cellar from which is possible to glimpse the porch, the citrus trees in the pots, the cypresses down the alley.
A night of fumes and shadows, resin remains on the shears, alcohol to clean the blades.The thought of a lazy moment, bedroom made for love and drawing.
British blankets stopped at the customs, on the way back from an ex colony.
Where the incense was burning they placed, few days ago, a vase full of flowers, it’s the gate to a courtyard, the carriage of a train, a boat in winter."

The above lines are some points of departure for perfume experiments conducted by Antonio Gardoni, an Italian indie perfumer.

He has a personal way of working and travels down several avenues of inspiration. One is that he has made a group of nine perfume bases, called Bogue Tailor - Le 9 Vie, titled by letters of the alphabet, each of which are a base from which to begin a custom perfume, developed further on personal meeting and collaborative consultation sharing olfactory experiences. These bases are softly stimulating shades of colognes, from herbaceous to citrus to a transparently smokey, among other variations, in varying proportions.

They are like character actors whose personality has not been smoothed over, like a form of cuisine that relies on the taste of good ingredients, like a salad where each element can be tasted as distinctively itself, and in combination with others.

A strong preference for perfume as an intimate or even private experience is evident, in that he has made masks infused with his perfumes, to test and inhale them up close to the face, rather than be diffused further out into the open air.  The sillage is of a close and intimate scale, a way of enclosing a person in the perfume, like an identifying piece of olfactory clothing worn close to the body, much more for the wearer than for others.

He acquired a cache of well preserved vintage fragrance materials through an antique dealer.  One was a basis for a cologne type of perfume that has a pervasively smokey and austerely woody fragrance profile and is called Cologne Reloaded, 1952. The sense of burning dry leaves is strong, and then a lit cigar, its white smoke clinging to the skin.

This is a personal one to one aesthetic, in limited edition form. First a relationship between the perfumer and the wearer, then the wearer and their closest intimate relationship, in style and manner of wear imbued with a classic Italian feeling for fine materials, treated with care and skill.

Reminding me of scenes from the film The Great Beauty where the main character wanders through the spectacular classical architecture of Rome, dressed in beautifully tailored clothing, sleeping on elegantly simple and luxurious Pratesi sheets, seeking pleasure in company with the glamorous while maintaining a sensuous nostalgia for a lost romantic past.

This perfumer's refined taste is centered on the classical poetry of iconic Mediterranean olfactory themes, of cypress, of the trade in aromatics from the Middle and Far East, of the countryside seasons of dry fallen leaves and the astringent sweetness of citrus flowers.

Infusions and handmade distillations are exclusively produced using natural raw materials.

The two ready to wear fragrances are Eau d' E (which I have not tried) and the above described Cologne Reloaded 1952.

The custom perfumes will be tailor-made by a review of the 9 Vie (9 paths) line and then beginning a one to one interaction and sharing of olfactory experiences with the perfumer, to layer in the wished for aromatic projection of the self. It would be signing up for a special experience of refinement and olfactory discovery with a poetic sensibility steeped in an Italian sense of beauty and classical luxury.

The site is at Bogue-profumo
For more information and appointment:  Antonio Gardoni - +39.3482591730

Above images borrowed from the Bogue-profumo site.
Samples provided by the perfumer.

2014, Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.

1 comment:

deana sidney said...

You have piqued my interest. To find the ancient scents in a hidden storage area is a great story. The description of the 50's cologne is perfect with a great, modern-sounding name Reloaded... go figure, all Matrix-y... I love the burning leaves idea -- smells elegant and tweedy when it mingles with our human scents.