January 16, 2014

Mikmoi Perfumes

Michael "Mik" Coyle
Mikmoi handmade artisan perfumes immediately unveil an invigorating freshness; all the perfumes in the line so far contain the element of breathing in cooling clean bracing air, along with the other elements of complex composition. Each perfume specifically references a beautiful place in a way that is both transporting and grounding.

The perfumer studied the qualities of natural aromatics with Mandy Aftel and Yosh Han and is self taught in the uses of aroma chemicals.  There is a strong influence from Japanese aesthetics, and from the cultures and environments of the French Alps, Hong Kong, upstate New York and San Francisco.

I have written of them before in reference to the FragMents Show in Los Angeles last year.  Quoting myself:
Mikmoi stands out with a unique clear and fresh aesthetic, beautifully and sharply detailed with internal complexities. Vesper starts with an aperitif-like accord of fig leaf, black rose, suede, myrrh, frankincense and amber behind it all.  It pulls up together to a deliciousness that is bright and lively yet anchored by a distant shadow that throws those exquisite details into relief all the more.  The other perfumes also share that structure, but move in from different directions.  
 Aldwych references the essence of old school masculine elegance with Wilde's green carnation, absinthe and aged patchouli. Ao is an extraordinarily accurate marine fragrance with faint tuberose, coconut, ginger, distant fire, amyris (a citrus) blue plai (something like strong ginger/tea tree) which effects a looping moment of refreshing sea breezes.  Itoh has peony and pink lotus florals held within cedar, pemou wood, tobacco leaf, held against a tiny edging of oud.  They are all startling in their pleasing brightness within an edP form, an effect which I have found before only in more ephemeral and fragile colognes. 
This time I would like to emphasize their quality of making me more conscious of my respiration and the rhythmic flood of cooling air entering  the interior warmth of the body; somehow these perfumes work with both the aesthetic and physical aspect of breathing in aspects of Nature.

It's an unusual style; I find it unique because of the feel of hyper-oxygenated air carrying the other notes into your awareness in a subtle way.  Some commercial perfumes might hit you with a strong oxygenated or marine quality, but with these perfumes you are not distracted from the internal composition, references or message. That sense of cool air acts as yet another layer and a lift to wake you up, mentally.  Like a gentle version of smelling salts, you feel more focused, present and alive when you pay attention to these perfumes emanating from your skin.

Please follow the links above for more details on notes and information on ordering.  50 ml flacons are $90, a sample set is $20.

The packaging is elegantly minimalist with a Japanese knotted cord around the neck.

Copyright 2014 Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.
Images from the Mikmoi website.

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