January 22, 2014

Wild is the Wind

Atelier de Geste is a multi-faceted organization put together by Beau Rhee, to express all the different aspects of her interests and work in scent, dance, fashion, design, and art.  Based on the premise that all material things are expressions of movement and therefore dance, she produces performances, perfume, wearable designs, sculptures and publishes texts that all work together to emphasize the beauty and meaning revealed by gesture.

Wild is the Wind EdP is one of a trio of perfumes created for an original work in three acts of a duet dance performance called The Ball of Living Matter, based on the themes of addiction, wealth and emotion.  This one is meant to express the emotional core and feelings that generate the energy to drive us all in everything we do.  Notes are listed as fire, musc, woods, rusebuds, on a base of leather and spirits.

Beau Rhee worked with a French perfumer in Grasse to produce the perfume, and it holds a tone of classical French perfume style that shines through the overall modernity.

This is a perfume with lots of movement within itself.  It morphs from an opening of energetic uplift and freshness, and then drys down to an abstract warmth and intimacy and then finally a sheer musc-ed leather that sinks down into the skin and bonds ultra closely to it, allowing random occasions of air freshened by rosebuds to arise.

Her wish to heighten physical awareness and ornament the passage of time is served by the way the perfume demonstrates emotional processes  of change and fluidity through its rapid development.  It may even be an olfactory enactment of the passage of a strong emotion as it first appears to leap out suddenly from within and then be modified by exposure to the outside air, and then eventually mellow back down into a person's interior memory.

It's a form of modern personal beauty, subtly decorating the air to draw attention to the body in its own skin, in both movement and repose. There is a sophisticated elegance carried throughout a composition that is both ethereal in its notes of "spirits" and woods, and sharpened up by the young rosebuds.

The rosebud aspect is, as in life, more a cool emanation, or a vibration just about to become a rose, than a full blown rose,  carried through the whole fragrance. It remains evident even after it is grounded by the leather/musc, that is itself almost like a soft stain on the skin.

This is a perfume whose outer civility and decorum conceals a depth of meaning and emotion; it's both easy to wear and wearable on any occasion, meant for both men and women, and complex in a way that satisfies engaged attention.  It is pretty without being too conventional, smooth but stronger than such opening prettiness would lead you to believe.

The  florals and woods effect is one of the most classically irresistible and refined self presentations in perfume, but then you find the initial coolness and rapid development and intricate movement ending in a lasting warmth of intimacy, becoming as one with your skin. There's a heightening of the skin's beauty by calling out its more animal nature as the leather and musc remain and the subtle youthful air of rosebuds and fire and spirits refresh its energy.

I've applied and even re-applied a number of times to re-experience and examine the morphing effect, but it never gets too loud or big or overwhelming. A perfume of distinctive elegance that becomes part of you without wearing you instead, showing its strength through skillful complexity and longevity.

The perfume is available at Atelier de Geste online, and at Twisted Lily in Brooklyn, which is becoming known for carrying indieperfumes.  The flacon is a beautiful crystal teardrop shape. A small gold mask logo decorates all the products as a theatrical symbol.

Music to listen to perfume by:

Wild is the Wind sung by Nina Simone
and by David Bowie (live)
and Cat Power
and by Johnny Mathis, 1957 from the film of the same name (with clips).

The song was an inspiration for the perfume, especially the lyrics by Dimitri Tiomkin and Ned Washington.

Limited edition two tone hose in special colors

In depth interview with Beau Rhee on her aims and inspirations and the meaning of every element she uses, by Katherine Chan, on Mad Perfumista

Please follow the above active links for more information and to order. Disclosure: samples received from the perfumer, and my own purchase of the perfume at Twisted Lily.

Copyright 2014 Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.  Images from Atelier de Geste.

2 comments:

deana sidney said...

Lovely descriptions and I do love that Nina Simone song. Rosebuds and wood tones are a smashing combo... can't wait to try it!

Lucy said...

Dear Deana, I think you'd appreciate it.