May 20, 2013

Andy Tauer /No 14 Noontide Petals EdT


Photo David Douard at Valentin
This is one of my favorites of all the Andy Tauer fragrances.  He has been, among other things, creating highly individualistic interpretations of certain classical perfume types, referencing the traditional European perfume forms while bringing in a smartly modern and open feel.  As an independent perfumer who does everything himself from start to finish, I find his fragrances are always expressive of his personality, and this one I think especially expresses his rational, sophisticated yet friendly and down to earth persona. 
Eau de Toilette was traditionally used especially for warmer weather to create a stimulating, cleansing and brisk aura to fight the heat and its attendant effects on the body.
Noontide Petals opens strong, bright sunny and keen, with plenty of bergamot, sparkling aldehydes and Bourbon geranium. Calling this an EdT makes it sound like it might be softer than his usual perfumes but the sophisticated presence of this fragrance is at the level of an EdP. The way it opens out with such an intense burst of sparkling citrus, and then morphs into a floral-ized powder to then  focus on the reality and charm of clean skin, is where the EdT tradition is fulfilled.
Clarity and excitement are imparted by the citrus and aldehydes, which then wind down to the next stage.  A geranium astringently leads into the heart notes of rose, ylang, tuberose and jasmine, which are unified into a rich floral statement with a soft cooled and powdered skin tone.  A strong sense of development is created from the high and full-throated opening down to the soothing comfort of a calm sensuality.  The citrus lingers with a gin and tonic-like sweetness that hovers over patchouli, frankincense, vanilla, sandalwood, cooling iris, styrax and vetiver.  For me the sandalwood dominates and unifies all within the lingering base. Eventually, after about a half hour, the citrus burns away, and then you are left with a sense of cleansed warm skin beautifully enhanced by the subtle precious base notes.
This is a beautiful accessory for the warmer season, both clean and sophisticated in its body consciousness.  There is a lively sharp beginning and then a subtle and lasting aura emanating from the skin, more like a reminder and an encouragement to energy and lightness. It well recalls a dip into and a drink of sparkling water while moving through the aromatic flowering trees and shrubs of full summer. Each phase is vivid and contains its own Tauer-ly personalized tang, while creating a sense of movement, air, brightness and light.
2013 copyright Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.
 I received a sample through a friend, the Non-Blonde, whose lovely site I have enjoyed since 2006.

Music to listen to perfume by:  More of This (Neighbors RMX) by Vetiver

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