April 12, 2013

Tommi Sooni Perfumes: Jinx and Passerelle

Australia and the lands Down Under have grown their own perfumers and thriving perfume scene. As with music and film, there is a strong influence from Europe, but these original niche perfumers are using the French classic perfume forms as a starting point and reinterpreting them to incorporate the alternative experience of their own cultures and environment.

Australia itself is such an extraordinary place, that if wasn’t real it would not be believable. As a continent the western part holds some of the very oldest landscapes on this Earth, with a shore line that contains some of the most ancient forms of life undisturbed from the beginnings of life on this planet.  There are iron red mountain ranges of solid metal, unique animal species and a vast complex coral reef that is something like the lab from which all life grew.

The region has given rise to many strong and uniquely stylish film makers, musicians, writers and now perfumers.  The Tommi Sooni style is one of brightness and warmth.

Jinx EdP is my favorite of the samples I have tried. It has a joyful air combined with complexity and depth. I would call it celestial, and smart in both senses of the word, that is both stylish and intelligent. It maintains my curiosity and feeling of alert interest. This perfume could well bring you into a sense of kinship with your own inner healthy animal. I imagine a white horse or Siamese cat in an open sunny field of fragrant blooming plants; one who crushes aromatic greens as it moves. As the perfume settles the flowers serve to enhance this essentially deep natured perfume. Softening over time in its longevity, there is a sense of elegance and refinement that soaks in and allows the skin’s own warmth and scent to play a real part. The notes are described as fig, green vine leaves, crushed basil, the classic white flower combination of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, and ylang ylang over a base of moss, vetiver, white musk, with rock rose and crystallized ginger to kick up and maintain the soprano key.

For me, Passerelle EdP strongly references the lily of the valley perfumes of classic French perfumery, but uses native Australian flowers to accomplish the piercingly pure floral effect. To quote the perfumer’s site:

"For Passerelle we gathered an Australian Spring floral bouquet of delicate native jasmine, starry tea tree, soft honeyed myrtle, the crisp notes of boronia buds and the much loved flowers of silver wattle, adopted by the French and known to the world as mimosa. We chose yellow rose, honeysuckle, winter sweet and golden trumpet to reflect the warmth of the Australian sun and to add a cosmopolitan edge to Passerelle. Adding these golden flowers of joy to our native bouquet we then spun fine threads of Australian sandalwood amongst the blooms and finally, drops of pettigrain for the green stems. The word Passerelle is French for bridge or catwalk, a name befitting a perfume that is both fashionable and a fragrant link between two cultures."

The use of strong and unique Australian versions of classic materials modernizes the perfume’s couture aura and creates a warmth and liveliness that connects directly to a wilder, less domesticated form of Nature. Super bright and warm, there is no chemical edge in the dry down, but there is more and more use of the skin’s human warmth as an element, incorporating body heat itself as it directly beautifies your own persona in a refined way.

What I like about this take on classic forms is that it’s not perfume you have to live up to. Instead this is a refreshing take on the disciplined perfectionism of French perfume types, using the beauty of special and unique materials that graciously usher in an atmosphere of innate elegance. These Tommi Sooni perfumes reference and respect the great perfume beauties of the Old World while exposing you to the complex lively energy of a New World, in an intimate way. Since I have become aware that the materials of this New World are rooted in the most ancient landscapes on earth, I find such exposure to them delights me all the more.

There are other intriguing perfumes in the line to explore also. Please see the site for prices, samples, full bottle, direct order or for Stockists:  Discover Tommi Sooni

Perfect Australian music to listen to perfume by:

Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds 

Images above from the perfumer's site.  

FYI another Down Under niche perfume I have posted about before: Fleurage
and also Pacific Perfumes from New Zealand. 

Copyright 2013 Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved.
Samples were provided to me by the perfumer, I was not compensated for my review.

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