March 14, 2012
Fleurage Magnolia, Equinox and Gypsy
The three fragrances I have tried from Fleurage are Magnolia, Equinox and Gypsy.
All three have an opening that almost seems like hay, but it’s well worth the wait of about 30 seconds as they morph and change entirely. They all bloom out and get celestially prettier and prettier and then leap over to beautiful.
I cannot stress enough that they all have a lot of development, changing rapidly throughout wear, getting richer over time. They hold their top notes tenaciously, and somehow I get a whiff of fresh water from a fast running stream over stones releasing a light mineral mist in the air.
That part of it is more a mood than a physical description of notes, by which I mean there is an impression of freshness in all three, whether or not they come from the direction of citrus, wood, floral or incense. The energy is high in all three, somewhat similar to that very highest keynote of a tea rose, almost like the moisture of a living thing.
Magnolia is an impression of a flower I don’t know personally, because in my Brooklyn climate, magnolias have no fragrance. I know that in warmer zones they do, and this one appears to be an accord with a soft vanilla sandalwood pitch, a hint of spice and an unsweetened jam at heart. Creating the impression of a warm thick petaled floral whose aura is one of soft relaxation, a balmy air that holds the ornamental aspects of the scent.
As I tried all three one after the other I found that the Magnolia became a lush background for the citric-green Equinox, whose notes are listed as Base: Benzoin, Violet Leaf, Hyssop. Middle: Lavender, Hyacinth, Iris, Boronia. Top: Geranium, Lemon. This is a lively fragrance, and I like the soothing background of the Magnolia as an equal but opposite influence at the same time, and in fact the active Equinox carries the Magnolia out around you more expansively. I put Equinox on the wrists and Magnolia on the neck, under the hair, or one on each arm.
On its own, Equinox combines crisp green and citrus with the coolness of Iris and the high pitch of a Hyacinth and Lavender, which do not emerge as discrete recognizable notes but are held smoothly within the dominant citric green.
Gypsy is listed as a masculine fragrance, but I find that it is entirely wearable by women, especially those who have a taste for Amber or Clove toned Carnation. This one holds its energy within its spicy pitch, and the Pepper brings it up to the level of brightness I find common to all three of these perfumes. Though an Oriental type it is still clear and bright, there is no heaviness here. The notes are listed as Base: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Rose, Middle: Cinnamon, Jasmine, Top: Clove, Anise, Pepper.
All three perfumes are tenacious with good longevity, and a medium to light sillage (not too much for an office environment but clear enough so you can enjoy it on yourself without holding your wrist to your nose all day) that deepens the closer in to the skin. They all harmonize and even enhance each other, as I know from my habit of trying things together.
These are hand made perfumes, and the perfumer makes them in small amounts, based on personal inspirations. The site states that the perfumer prefers to envision perfume compositions without reference to marketing or trending considerations, to remain as expressive and unique as possible.
There is not a sample program listed on the site, however if you contact the perfumer at the site to request samples something can be arranged. These perfumes come from Australia and are expensive, at about 198 Australian dollars, which equal about $209 U.S. dollars, and then there is shipping. There appears to be some plans in the works with half sizes coming in the future.
Fleurage is participating in Monica Miller, the Perfume Pharmer’s new project Primordial Scents, that will start unveiling this summer. I am curious indeed to see what element this perfumer chooses to turn into aromatic form.
Music to wear perfume by (from another Melbourne Australia outfit)
Dirty Three I Really Should Have Gone Out Last Night
from Whatever You Love, You Are - as the comment says, both melancholy and exuberant at the same time.
Above first image of night magnolias by me. Second image from the Fleurage site, which shows the impish energy in these perfumes.
Disclosure: samples were donated to me by the perfumer.