May 22, 2011
Daim Blond by Serge Lutens
This is about a delicate leather, soft and brushed and similar in its clean musk to the skin it envelops. The brightness of the opening notes have an almost distanced sense of space that contains an apricot/heliotrope/iris sweetness which on me quickly gives way to the tone of true suede. Or more accurately, what my ideal of what a soft delicate pale suede would smell and feel like, made into a perfect pair of gloves that reach softly up the arm to a three quarter length. The suede accord owes much to the cardamon and musk notes.
This is a far lighter and softer form of the Serge Lutens style I am more used to from my experience of Chergui, and Fille en Aiguilles, but still very much in that genre of an abstract composition that winds up resembling or recalling a real physical experience. Eventually, after the sense of suede dies down, there is simply a warm sense of (highly decorative) intimacy, of skin on skin.
Christopher Sheldrake is legendary in his ability to conjure the forces of pure luxe in the form of a scent. This is a suede that enhances the sense of skin, creating a velvet softness that makes it difficult to differentiate between the scent, the skin and the impression of the a very fine suede embellishing it.
I have almost depleted my sample, which I received at a Sniffapalooza event last year, and would say this one is worth saving up for, at $140 for 50 ml.
Image above, by Bert Stern, Marilyn wearing such luxurious gloves in the early 60s, from We Heart Vintage, a site about fashion photography from the 20s to the 70s.