January 3, 2011
Bruno Acampora Profumi
Bruno Acampora apparently was one of the beautiful people of the era, of the so-called jet-set, continuously moving from beautiful place to beautiful place all over the world. There is an Andy Warhol portrait, which is the trademark of a certain type of person, time and place. The perfumes in the line were created in the mid 70s into the early 80s. They carry the feeling of those times into the present day, by which I mean the embrace of guiltless hedonism, referenced back to the ancient Roman resort of Capri. This is a good place from which to start in creating fragrances.
I was introduced to this perfume at the Fall Sniffa perfume event, at Bendels. They made a strong impression, which is saying something in the midst of a massive perfume and sensory overload. Samples were running very low, and certain solid perfumes were sold out already, but I was able to get samples of the Musc and Jasmine. These are perfume oils, in aluminum vials stopped with corks, and there are written directions provided to help you turn them into an eau de parfum if so desired. Everything comes in a solid perfume version, and it is obvious right away that the quality and density of the scent they hold is rich and strong. While there is a very high percentage of natural essences in these fragrances, it does not appear that they are all strictly and entirely natural perfumes. (The information on the site is mostly in Italian.) Many aspects of both Musc and Jasmine bear the marks of a high component of naturals in the action of the drydown and in complexity of single notes.
Both the Musc and the Jasmine turn animalic after a few minutes, in the sense of something catlike there. A cat relaxing in the sun, after washing thoroughly. They are redolent of the corporeal, very material and tangible, not ethereal in any way; there is a strong sense of the body in both of them. The Musc seems to grow in strength as time goes on, a true musk, the scent of a clean strong animal, and is actually a perfect balance to the Jasmine, (I can see wearing one on each wrist) which starts out true to the floral form but burns off the jasmine headiness to settle down into the green/subtly indolic aspect of the flower. The Musc (1975) notes are listed as Musk, Rose, Violet, jasmine, Cloves, Amber, Patchouli penang, Sandalwood. The Jasmine (1978) notes are listed as Jasmine, Cyclamen, Cloves, Ylang Ylang.
I am still thinking of those few moments I was able to try the solid perfume version of Sballo, but it was sold out with no samples available, so I will have to check back soon to see if it could possibly truly be as wonderful as I remember. An earthy floral, the base of vetiver, hay and sage gave the top floral notes of rose geranium violet lily and neroli an astringency that was smoothed by the musk, patchouli and sandalwood mid tones. There was a sense of wind-swept strongly aromatic summer country air.
All of these are wearable for masculine as well as feminine. There's that ancient Roman/modern Italian hedonist flavor for you.
Bendels is currently the place to try these things in person, otherwise Luckyscent has them online, and a sample set of all seven.
Above images. top from the Bruno Acampora site, next Dionysus on a wild cat, an ancient mosaic; last, the beautiful Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita by Fellini.