I know A Wing and a Prayer from the last Natural Perfumer's Guild project of Musk, and I still wear Tallulah B, which is both light and rich, as is this new Outlaw perfume, Notorious. Two perfumes are not enough to say this is the line's definitive style, but what these share is a delicacy of unfolding development and subtlety of effect. There is the citrus refreshment of the beginning, burning down to a cooled floral heart supported by my favorites, oakmoss and amber. The oakmoss and amber lingering together have a delicate dark spiced woodiness, and the whole experience makes me think of embroidery, of light shown up more by the dark, of scented silks fluttering in the air. The perfumer's female inspirations were Etta Place, Lily Langtry and Isadora Duncan, individualists and therefore outlaws in their own day, when women who were not exactly as society dictated they ought to be were automatically outlaws and dangerous to know. As these notes are, all natural outlaw ones, deemed dangerous.
So if IFRA regulations were to be followed this perfume would not exist: bergamot and rosewood top; rose, wild rose, lavender, violet leaf, carnation and geranium heart, oakmoss and amber base.
Rose of Cimarron by Bellyflowers/Tambela contains essential oils of pink pepper, black pepper, pandanus, rose absolute, wild rose absolute, jasmine absolute, labdanum, patchouli, angelica root, ambrette seed, blond tobacco and amyris. For me, the blond tobacco is predominant, and the rose and the patchouli are thrown into relief by the pepper. I would say this is a perfume that could be worn by both men and women, or well-shared by a couple. Rose was famous for her loyalty and devotion to her man, running through a hail of bullets to bring him a gun to fight for his life, they were outlaws together, and they worked as a team as long as they could keep out of the hands of the law. Hopefully natural perfumery can stay out of the hands of the law before it goes down in a hail of regulations. Of course, as the perfumer warns on her website , be mindful of your own skin sensitivities and do skin patch tests before using any such products in quantity.
Gypsy by the Providence Perfume Co. hearkens to the rebel child of Madeline and the Gypsies by Ludwig Bemelmens, and her adventures with the Gypsy queen and the circus people, a precious interlude of not having to obey the rules for awhile. This is a perfect inspiration for a perfume, because who doesn't want to experience getting away from routine and convention and such strictures for awhile? This perfume is a pairing of a fougere theme with an amber tone, thereby breaking the rules immediately -- the typical components of a fougere such as lavender, oakmoss, tonka and linalool, are here combined with others not typical, such as vanilla, costus, patchouli, vetiver, cardamon and galangal. The full list is for the top: galangal, lavender, lemon, petitgrain, cardamom; heart: pink lotus absolute, Bulgarian lavender and green violet leaf; base: tonka, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, costus, and vanilla. In total the effect is a warm softness cooled by the lavenders and citruses, so you indeed experience a fougere effect cloaked in warmth. Wit with a sense of the luxurious.
Please continue to visit the other sites for their takes on these and the other perfumes, and giveaways:
Gaia at The Non Blonde, Donna at the Examiner.com, Felicia at Fragrance Belles Lettres, Carol at Waft by Carol, Ida, Mark and Monica at Ca Fleure Bon, me of course, here at Indieperfumes, Beth at Perfume Smellin Things and Pat at Olfactarama
First, Detail of an embroidered waistcoat, French, 1800 – 25; in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New … (credit: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, gift of United Piece Dye Works, 1936)
Second, Illustration by Dulac, The Princess and the Pea (story)
Third, Madeline and the Gypsies cover art