Aroma M and Alexis Karl of Scents by Alexis, who are well known for making well-made niche perfumes have joined forces to create a pair of perfumes aimed at sophisticated young things, without excluding the rest of us. Maria has shown the strong influence of a Japanese aesthetic on her Brooklyn DUMBO studio, depicted through her Geisha line. She developed and expanded this in every Japanese inspired direction imaginable from tea to incense and the quietest and softest of florals, with a grounded base of something mysterious and deep. Alexis Karl comes from direction of Williamsburg, with its individualist art/music scene, that shows its influence on the personally hand-done gold and silver-leafed unique bottles in which she presents her own personal glow-in-the-dark aesthetic. The combination of these influences has lead to perfumes that refer to youthful sweetness grounded in something softly dark to create an iridescent fragrant quality. This subtle iridescence manifests too in the texture of the solid perfumes. The liquids, Truth or Dare and Rebel Angel are also available in a portable, wearable form for filling the heart-shaped space of a pendant that can be clipped to one’s person wherever way one may choose. I am reminded by the anime girl aesthetic, which is the product of East meets West in the modern day.
Currently the uniquely modern type of perfume is gourmand and it appears that this generation has its signature within that category. Studies show that young men are especially attracted by the scent of vanilla, and the young seem to (rather graciously) like to interest each other even more than please themselves. I look to please myself for the most part, but even so, though not of this demographic myself, I can appreciate beautifully done sweetness beside a deep vanilla especially because the base comes through with a full and wide strength. I find these scents warming and softly sweet yet without cloy. The sugar is warm and quickly burns off into a subtle caramel café au lait fragrance beside a honey scented flowering vine, and a tree blossom that has no scent except the hint of a freshness in the air. In other words, though these scents are directed at the young, they are very pleasing and wearable by anyone except perhaps the very grandest of dames on the most formal of occasions. They are casual but still thoughtful because the vanilla has been deepened a notch into something approaching a smooth amber.
These perfumes are like the anime girls above from The Capital City of Flowers in the Sky, kiwaii, wistful, soft, comforting, yet shadowed by the darks highlighting the lights in the modern air we breathe.
Available online and at Fred Segal IndieScents.com