October 31, 2010

Ayala Moriel Parfums

Ayala Moriel has been a making perfumes by hand  using fine natural and botanical materials for a long time. On trying the perfumes it becomes obvious very quickly that they arise from a experienced and close knowledge and skill in the use of natural substances and how they combine, in compositions that keep the personality of each note intact. 
This fluency in beautiful materials translates into the ability to express ease and a sense of well-being married to beauty and a very individual style of elegance. I find it amazing how the very same classic materials used by different perfumers result in perfumes as completely different as the perfumers all are from each other.  The scent elements are shaped so differently in each of their hands, even within the classic forms.
In these perfumes each note is clearly recognizable, and the scent not as much blended as composed or sculpted. The overall impression is of a particular perception shaping the composition into something you could never have imagined otherwise. With a strong and clear personality putting these materials together in a specific way, the guide of a particular sensibility that understands them deeply makes for a perfume reality that surpass expectations.  At least it does for me.  I would never have imagined these perfumes before having tried them, even while recognizing the classical forms such as chypres and soliflores.  The interpretations are so personal and I find they have a coolness and modern precision that are unusual in the general style of natural perfumery today.  They are an example of how natural perfumery is going through a state of rapid development and evolution. 
These all have a sense of strength that tends to bloom out into a bigger overall tone over time too, though still within the parameters of holding close to the skin, as natural perfumes tend to do.  They don’t travel beyond about 12 inches away.  Still there is a sense of being enveloped in the scents, probably because of their clarity and strength.
I recently ordered a 6-sample package.  I chose them based on my own interests and it turned out to be a selection across the wide range of the line.
My choices were Schizm, an animalic floral chypre that burns down to a dry soft musk; the soliflore Lovender, the herbal cooled with Iris; Roses et Chocolat, a velvety rose with a hint of cocoa; Fetish, a quick hit of strong citrons; Rainforest, a chypric green mossy earth; Yasmin, the undertone of jasmine, which somehow evolves into cleanliness and sunlight.  Each has that modern refined sensibility that keeps each element discrete, yet composes them in such a way as to highlight a particular aspect of the dominant elements.  Their coolness is different from many natural scents that seem to emit a certain heat throughout their evaporation.
I find her site Smellyblog and her newsletters to be a useful reference source about different aspects and materials of natural perfume and perfume in general.  Her course in natural perfumery as described in her site looks to be thorough and rigorous. 
AM offers the perfumes in different sizes, which is helpful as to affordability, and in solid form, which is a choice I love.  She has developed a wide line of perfume-holding jewelry in silver.  She also is delving into teas and chocolate flavorings and gives what sound like wonderful afternoon scented teas in her studio in Vancouver from time to time.
The painting above appears to me to have a visual relationship to something like the effect of a modern Chypre composed of natural materials,  by Ciurlionis, a Lithuanian abstract painter,  one of 13 taken from his cycle The Creation of the World - 1905-1906


Bellatrix said...

Nice! :) I only tried 2 Ayala's perfumes and I think she really has talent for perfume making. So far, she and DSH are my fav.

Lucy said...

Hi Bella,

AM's sample program is definitely worth trying. The sample sizes provided are enough for about 5 plus wearings, depending on how much you like to put on at once. Then you get six it can be quite the journey...

Jade Dressler said...

without smelling...I love the painting and it makes me want the perfumes.

Lucy said...

Jade, yes isn't the painting very much like scents rising out of the liveliness of the earth? Certain paintings give a good idea of perfumes.

Anonymous said...

Please tell us about the beautiful painting!

chayaruchama said...

Ayala's work is a delight; so is tha painting !

Lucy said...

Hi Masha, and Chaya --

Yes the painting is amazing. There are others I will use later too. The link brings you to a site about the artist, one of the first, along with Kandinsky, to paint abstractly to express emotion and nature.

Scent Hive said...

I'm sure Ayala appreciates this well written, poignant review of her fragrances. I really enjoyed reading it and am so glad you've had the chance to experience her perfumes. If we end up meeting in NYC, I'll try to remember to bring you a few samples.


Lucy said...

Hi Trish, that would be great, tho it looks now like it might be in the evening if you all are still around. Perhaps decompressing from your adventures around a cup of tea or something. I could hear about the highlights of the day ---