September 16, 2010

Lord's Jester - Part 2

These are additional notes in regard to the Lord’s Jester liquid perfumes to accompany my prior entry on the solid perfumes (scroll down just below this one).  All of them have the rare element of natural ambergris in the base, and begin with deep toned sweetness brightened with a little pepper, either pink or black, and lift off after some time into a classically floral themed heart that continues to lighten and illuminate the deep notes of the base composition.   

The liquid perfumes are all very tenacious for natural perfumes, which ordinarily don't last more than a few minutes on me if they really are all natural, probably because of the depth and particular quality of the base note materials.  Re-application is worth experimenting with too, especially on different areas of skin, because then the often surprising development will be staggered at different stages.   I am not listing all the notes, because each perfume is made with between 15 and 22 fully natural elements.  Those I mention are the ones that came forward on me.

As with all fully natural perfumes, they require a more meditative/concentrated/mindful quality of attention to what you are breathing in, to be able to apprehend the singular qualities of the essences as they reveal themselves over time. 

I find myself feeling very well disposed towards the full collection of scents.  I think they are suited to both men and women, maybe more serious women who appreciate the lower tones, like the notes of cello and bass guitar, and they would all be absolutely killer on men.

Demeter edt, as you might expect from such a name, suits the autumnal harvest season, with hay and tobacco, pine needle, rose, neroli and fir cone.  The tobacco tints the honeyed sweetness of the hay, giving it a warming quality.  This would be a bright ray of warmth in the depth of winter, and a refined reflection of the heat of summer.

Zephyr edt has an immediately bright and light tone, with certain notes such as pine needle, jonquil, petitgrain, cedar and star anise opening up the dark heart to the breath of air that such elements personify.  This is one that creates a floral liqueur cloud around you after it has soaked into the skin for some time.

Daphne edt has, among other things, I am happy to say, oakmoss, a favorite of mine, in its base, immortelle and magnolia at the heart and cypress, ginger, marigold and citrus notes on top, making for an almost chypre style of perfume. Almost, except that big doses of vanilla and two forms of jasmine and frangipani soften and sweeten the edges considerably.

Selene edp begins almost harshly for a minute, probably because of the combination of certain almost opposite elements, then burns itself quickly down into a carnation nutmeg and clove mist with geranium and juniper pulling in a fresh herbaceous fragranced air around a spicy core.

Dionysus I have posted about before This is a perfume with a most extreme development; from – on me - a sharp, almost ashy earthy coffee to a mellow tobacco-toned honeyed musk, which is as warm and comforting as a sweater knit with strands of sunshine.

 Heracles has the masculine strength of its name.  Somehow the elements of black currant bud, ambrette, boronia and styrax  are adding something clean and clear and body conscious to the rest of the composition which is otherwise made up of very similar elements to the others.  This almost doesn’t smell like a scent, but actually smells like a man whose own scent smells very good.
 Ares mists out like a blend of wood and spice and musk, the ambrette and labdanum holding down but not dominating the fir and cedar.  There is an element of lavender at the center that pulls it all together into a more traditionally masculine type of fragrance; not that I have much respect for the gender classifications of perfumes and I can easily see this worn by a woman who likes the "oriental" style of fragrance.
Above mosaic of the four seasons at Tolmeita
Photo of last autumn's hydrangea leaves by me, Lucy Raubertas.  Please visit my links above to prior posts on the highlighted words.

All Rights Reserved 2010 Lucy Raubertas


Anonymous said...

Such a lovely array of good smells to experience! Bravo Lord's Jester! And thank you so much to Lucy for sharing these gems with us =)

JoanElaine said...

Thank you for sharing these reviews. The perfumes sound heavenly. I must order samples!

Lucy said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Lucy said...

Thanks Esscentaul -- yes they are doing interesting work that should be more well known. A local NYC perfumer too...

Lucy said...

Hi JoanElaine -- there is a sale going on so it's more affordable, which is sometimes a problem with naturals, the materials are so expensive --

Lucy said...

I should also say that the tenacious quality is due to the rare element of ambergris, which is fixes a fragrance to make it last, as well as all its other properties of enhancement in a composition. Something rarely seen today, true ambergris in a perfume.