One more sample of the Natural Perfumer's Guild Musk Project arrived from Germany yesterday - Botanical Musk Nr. 5 by Dupetit Natural Perfumes. I am happy to learn that there are a number of fully natural perfume makers in Europe experimenting and creating in this genre. Dupetit has combined certain of his compositions: Vetiver, Chypre and Foin Coupe, then added further elements from his established palette to a number of interesting and unusual natural fragrance materials. Costus, and for a heavy fond the resinoid mastix absolue, styrax containing a big cinnamon alcohol component, African iris, Moroccan rose, Bourbon geranium, and the hesperidic notes grapefruit, petit grain, verbena, and buchu betulina. They are fixed and grounded with oakmoss, one of my favorite notes, as well as the sweet birch tar and tonka, blended with lots of Egyptian jasmine. The result is a complicated softness that clouds together these many elements, resulting in a tarry sweet and soft wilderness tone overall. Like a forest walk in the heavy golden light of 4 o'clock in the afternoon, when the slanted rays of the sun pick out all the individual edges of each blade of grass, twig and leaf, yet blends the rest into large swaths of volume and form. This perfume maker uses the old European 17th and 18th century natural perfume basic materials and traditional manner of composition, combined with the unfamiliar materials found and made available through Western Europe's subsequent botanical exploration of the "New World" and the other continents, to add new tones and depths to these natural perfume traditions.
Above photo of pepper and cloves from Dupetit website.