June 17, 2010

The Scented Djinn - O True Apothocary!

This past week it’s almost impossible to discern personal perfume while walking beneath the linden trees as they are pouring out their fragrance these humid days and nights. Some of the lindens in the park nearby are three stories tall and are flooding the air to such saturation, it reaches into my fourth floor rooms across a wide field and the street. Other lindens punctuate the side streets keeping up the heavy mist of fragrance from corner to corner.

Certain perfumes do enhance an atmosphere like this. Natural perfumes generally do, especially if they have notes that complement what is going on in the environment. Then a person wearing them becomes like the detail in a traditional landscape painting, put there for scale or to be the bright spot and focal point. I used to prefer landscapes without that obligatory human or animal figure in the foreground, but it’s different when it’s you. When it’s real and it’s trees in bloom, it’s like participating in something celestial, to be moving through vast amounts of scented air, while your own physical matter, your weight, holds you down from being swept along in a torrent of fragrance. This is a great time of year for natural perfumers, because the humidity brings out all the delicate notes to their fullest expression.

I obtained a set of samples from Scented Djinn on Etsy, on the recommendation of Scent Hive. It was good timing, with the lindens going full blast, for Serj Eau de Parfum with its notes of fir balsam, hyacinth, orange juice and ruh khus (a special form of fresh vetiver). The ultra soft subtle evergreen note is like stepping on fallen dry fir needles, releasing scent moved up by the orange, with the blend of tinctured hyacinth and ruh khus, is a combination of high and dry low notes both soothing and striking. I love evergreen notes, but they are less often used in perfume than I wish they were.

Another highlight is Oshiba Eau de Pafum, with key notes of osmanthus, hiba wood (a Japanese wood, similar to cedar) and labdanum. The opening sweetness is a hint of delicate osmanththus inlaid into aromatic wood. The floral burns off quickly and the labdanum balsamic blends with the hiba, which over time then settles down into something close to a powdery cedar.

The names of the scents, Jameel, Sahar, Khodum (beauty in the hand of wickedness, as the perfumer says) give you the flavor of the references to a classically Persian style of perfume of this suite of perfumes. There are others on the blog site, which appear to come and go with the seasons, of a more Spring-like floral theme. I am interested in the Viridian Grotto Creme Parfum, with its lavender and coriander and frankincense notes, I believe it would be beneficial for a tired head at the end or beginning of the day.

The Scented Djinn, aka Justine Crane, conducts year long studies in perfumery (Natural Perfume Academy) online and in person. She's been making perfumes for a long time, and there's a lot to explore there.

Sample packets at O True Apothecary and at the Etsy shop, which carries the full line of soaps and body products, hand made, very well priced and made entirely by hand with beautifully wholesome ingredients.

Musical accompaniment: More of This (Neighbors remix) by Vetiver, who are being nice enough to allow for free download of the song for a limited time.

14 comments:

Scent Hive said...

What a fabulous review of Justine's creations! Viridian Grotto Creme Parfum does sound wonderful, I am always intrigued by coriander in perfume.

I would love to do her year long perfume course, maybe more time will open for me someday to do that. :-)

Thanks again for another thoughtful review!

~Trish

Lucy said...

Moi aussi, Trish. I think we could put together some nice creations. We will have to save up. Can you imagine if we took the class together? That would be a blast.

Thanks again for doing all the work you do to bring out the natural perfumers and products from the West...and elsewhere

Laurie said...

Hi Lucy,

It's so great to see your review of Justine's beautiful work! She is a real trailblazer in the natural perfume world and is so talented and sharing of her art. I also am a big fan of the green notes, so I need to try these! Thank you!

XOXO~Laurie
Velvet & Sweet Pea's purrfumery

Tamara said...

Hello Lucy,

Well I am diggin anything that smells like a beautiful forest, also being a huge fan of fir absolutes. Something so magical about those notes, your right, it isn't done enough! I will have to check these out. Thanks again for the review ;)

P.S Oooo Laurie commented before me, I love that woman, I wish I could meet her in person one day<3
I heart her line!

Truly, Tamara

Shelley Waddington said...

Justine is a marvellous perfumer and it's wonderful to hear your descriptions of some of her fragrances. Hope to hear more!

Lucy said...

Hi Tamara,

yes, you would love Serj then. I too would love to meet Laurie in person someday, so we must make a point of it.

Lucy said...

Dear SW - yes and I hope to see more reviews also. Trish of Scent Hive was the one who got me interested, so I hope the circle widens yet further.

Victoria said...

Serj sounds lovely. I also love evergreens in perfumery. I agree that they are seldom used, especially in "ladies" fragrance.

Lucy said...

Hi Victoria,

Maybe if we all keep talking about it will start being considered -- there are so many different forms and it combines well with woods and balsams.

Scent Hive said...

Lucy, it would be amazing to take Justine's class together. Not sure about my inherent perfume-making skills, but I know I would love it :-)

~T

Scent Hive said...

Lucy, that would be amazing to take Justine's class together! I'm not sure about my inherent perfume-making skills, but i know I would love it :-)

~Trish

Monica Miller said...

Hi Lucy, the lavender /frankicense/coriander sounds great to me right now because of my current obsession with frankincense- being touted as a "cancer cure" the scent sounds invigorating/ freshening AND healing - pungent. A well inspired intorduction to a new (to me) perfumer. her soaps look fab as well, especially the poppyseed!

Lucy said...

Hi Monica,

Yes, I too have been in a frankincense mood for some time. I saw that poppyseed soap, & I definitely have my eye on it. Great combinations in the soaps...

Lucy said...

Yes, Trish, someday when we don't leave such double lives, and have more time, it would be great.