April 15, 2010

Bancha and O-Cha - Spring Tea perfumes

There is a transparent, lightly caffeinated energy to tea perfumes that has a warmer season association. Spring's been sunny and cool with even cooler evenings this time, so tea itself, drunk from a flowered or Japanese patterned cup, feels right. Having the essence of particular teas captured and enhanced as a ornamental veil for the skin intensifies all that tea is about, especially the tea experience of sipping a fragrant liquid slowly. These scents rise up from your skin into your face in similar way as when tasting the liquid itself. Both of these are very true tea scents.

Two perfumers, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz with Bancha, and Maria McElroy of Aroma M with O-Cha, have new scents this Spring, interpreting green tea to become expressive of a specific scent-flavor of "tea". Green teas range so widely in type and effect and in use, and these scents are at either end of the spectrum. Tea perfumes are a genre that are now referencing the subtleties of wide range of types of tea, and tea cultures around the world and even within each type.

I know that Maria has been a student of the tea ceremony in Japan, and I know that Dawn has been living in the American West for some time, where tea drinking as a beneficial habit beginning with the sixties and seventies has flourished and expanded.

Bancha tea is made from the larger, older leaves that are pruned at the end of the season, and therefore have become more concentrated and healthfully beneficial over the growing season. The DSH Bancha perfume is very like the lightly toasty, woody tea with a very subtle sweetness in its air. There is a stems-and-twigs quality to the perfume that gives a warm golden tone to the green tea effect. This is very realistic green tea, and an all botanical scent that would be worn well by a range of ages and both men and women. The holy basil has an anise tone that keeps it from being too plain in its beauty. It has been composed with certain ayurvedic qualities to render it a beneficial experience, similar to the drinking of bancha tea itself. The notes of mandarin, lime, mint, yuzu, holy basil, centifolia rose, sambac jasmine, pine needle, sandalwood and cedar, are so blended that each one does not individually register but settle together completely, in a quiet calmness that emanates a quality of peaceful innocence.

The Aroma M new fragrance O-Cha is the Japanese term for tea, which is basically defined as always green, and this scent is like the Spring tea made of the first young leaves and sprouts gathered in April and May. Densely green, clean, with a floral layer that is honeyed with citrus, it radiates out from the skin with a strong throw and an invigorating quality. This one is also very representational, reminding me of cool sweetened summer teas, combined with the very feminine aura that is part of the Geisha line of Aroma M. It is long lasting and stays true over the course of the day, when it is meant to be worn. The notes of green tea, sweet orange, and bois de rose of vanilla keep together in the proportion in which they begin over the course of wear.

I like having both such different types of green tea fragrances on hand this Spring. Both have their highly appealing qualities, and it's like collecting teas in the cupboard so that we can have the right one for the mood we're in.

Instructions on brewing green tea
Above image from Tea Guy Speaks, an extensive and informative site on tea.
The Aroma M site gives more information on O-Cha
DSH Perfumes' site gives access to Bancha and sampler sets of related perfumes

6 comments:

Le Chateau des fleurs said...

WOW you really know your stuff. i loved reading your posts. I am following you n ow and would love if you follow me back.
Have a great week end.
Frenchy

Scent Hive said...

I so love Bancha. In fact, I just wore it yesterday. I find it invigorating and calming at the same time. Kind of like green tea :-)

Nice review Lucy!
~Trish

ScentScelf said...

L, I am a big fan of tea in the cup and in perfume; therefore, this post was extra delightful.

Dawn's offerings have yielded a number of positives for me, but I have yet to try a tea-laced scent from the line. I am intrigued by the experience you describe. (Add another to the list for the next time I dig in at the DSH site; thank goodness for the smaller size bottles that let me play about until I land on something I simply must have more of.)

I've tried the Geisha series from Aroma M, and enjoy Noire. Am also intrigued by your description of O-cha.

I think I'm going to use your comment section as my little confessional to reveal that I have sought out tea "apps" for my iPod. I just like learning more about tea. :) Fortunately, there is a good quality tea shop not *too* far from me; if I want to be able to browse, or sit for a properly prepared cup, they are there. In a mall, of all places.

Lucy said...

Hi ScentScelf,

I have always loved that little photo of a white owl on your sidebar.

I do think you would enjoy O Cha, it's a sunny day tea.

I like that someone has made an app for tea. Learning a little more about green tea service for this post makes me realize I need a special pot to brew it properly, not too long, not too hot. There is a tea and honey shop in Grand Central Station, of all places, that has all kinds of exotic and precious teas. Of all places. Look out for Christopher Voigt, he is talking about opening a tea section on his site, Vetivresse soon. My last great tea experience was at The Adore on 13th in the West Village not long ago, and CV had good recommendations which I tried. It's a Japanese run English style tea place that is open quirky hours but is exquisite and worth catching the times when it is.

Lucy said...

Hi Frenchy, I have followed and must say I enjoy your energy and site a lot. Your children are angelically beautiful!

ScentScelf said...

Oh! Good heads up. I have noted the West Village shop in my "when I next go to NYC" daydream (not completely out of reason...I do go occasionally), and shall keep an eye out on Vetrivesse.