At this time, they are in a phase of offering simpler, softer blends of recognizable smells.
Such as Marc Jacobs Grass and Cotton.
Grass was a little sweeter than I expected, and did not have that uplift of the natural smell of new mown grass that I would like to find, but it is very reminiscent o the real thing for all that. It does have the quality of triggering the sense memory.
Hermes Un Jardin En Mediteranee has an herbal/floral astringent dry down and is better at hitting the summer spot for me. It becomes soft and spicy after the floral high notes evaporate, and has a comforting presence that persists without becoming overbearing. This has become a favorite and I use it frequently in the hottest of summer city days for the cologne like refreshment and herbal astringency.
Marketed as unisex, which is an unfortunate often mis-applied word, it seems to be inspired by the traditionally men's fragrance types, such as fougere or cologne, which now show a lot more appeal for women in the workplace. More subtle and "natural" in effect than most women's mainstream fragrance styles, which also aim for more sultriness than would be appropriate in the workplace, the traditionally masculine styles of perfume offer women a way to take that effect for themselves.
Earthiness set beside bergamot and fig is probably what gives the slight edge, keeping its admirable strength up.
This style seems to be fanning out across all the larger mainstream fragrance companies. I'm glad they are offering an aesthetic that gives a more natural, "unisex" refreshing yet strong scent experience.
Copyright 2006, Lucy Raubertas, All Rights Reserved